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Last Updated: 07/01/09  

                                               

 Welcome to a web site full of information on hiking in the Mid-Atlantic Region (PA, MD, VA and WV) ... topo maps, 3-D maps, elevation profiles, GPS data, directions, trail notes, photos.... everything you need to prepare for an excursion into the wilderness. Information for 191 hikes and over 2406 trail miles are now available. Venues such as, but not limited to, Shenandoah National Park/VA,  George Washington and Jefferson National Forests, VA and WV, the Monongahela National Forest in WV, state forests throughout PA, Green Ridge State Forest in MD and regional, state, county and federal parks throughout the Mid-Atlantic region are represented.

 

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"Yet in the walks I take through nature in quest of truth and demonstration, I recognize a poetry in earth and sea and sky, ruled in their cycles of harmonious actions, deeper and more sublime than ever muse un- taught in science could inspire." William B. Rogers: First State Geologist of VA, First president of M.I.T. and namesake of Mt. Rogers, Va.

Bulletin Board

 

Happy Birthday Mid-State Trail, PA:

Members of the groups that support and maintain this linear backpacking trail are having a 40th Anniversary party for the MST, open to the public, at the Elk Creek Café + Aleworks in Millheim, Pennsylvania. The party is July 12th, from 2:00 to 4:00PM. The Elk Creek Café will also be tapping the new “Mid State Trail Ale”, a Northern English Brown Ale.

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Latest Published Hikes

Grayson Highlands-2, VA

Grayson Highlands State Park Circuit, VA

Greenbelt Park, VA

SNP-Rocky Mount, VA

Big Run-Seneca  Creek-Lost Meadow Backpack, WV

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M. R. Hyker's Latest Adventure(s)

06-27 through 29-09 – Mount Rogers Backpack: In our last episode MRHyker (mild mannered chemist during the work week but your average Joe hiker on the weekends) and his trusty sidekicks had been forced by extremely bad weather conditions to retreat from this venue without completing their goals only to suffer more humiliation by discovering that their faithful steed, Big Red, had been broken into and nearly $2,000.00 in valuables impolitely removed by a group of thugs. At that moment MRHyker vowed that he would not let either foul weather or a bunch of punks keep him off of that mountain. He would be back!
 
 On this weekend he was joined by Sparky (an electrician) and Single Malt (connoisseur of fine Scotch). This time we left Big Red in the protective custody of the fine folks who manage the Grindstone Campground and took a short spur trail to the Mount Rogers Trail. This section of trail is as I remembered it: very long and gradual switchbacks at the beginning, a flat section in the middle, finishing up with a steeper grade on the AT aided by some rock steps before getting our first glimpse of the Highlands. There would be no threatening clouds or gale force winds the entire trip save for a thirty minute shower on Sunday night. Except for some haze in the valleys the views would be outstanding.

As we did before, we bypassed the Mount Rogers Summit Trail and headed straight for our planned campsite nestled in some evergreens. The spot was taken but we found an even nicer site with a view just beyond the Thomas Knob Shelter. I usually don’t like to camp in the open like this, especially at high elevations, but according to the weatherman there was little to no chance of a serious storm for the entire three day period. After setting up camp Single Malt and I grabbed some water and my GPS and set off to finally summit Mount Rogers. As usual we passed many wild ponies and would do so throughout the rest of the trip. The climb was quite gradual, first across an open meadow and then through a dense forest of Frazier Fir. We found what we thought was the summit complete with a USGS marker. Single Malt did a Yoga “Box” on top of it. Just at that moment a trio of hikers joined us, much to Single’s chagrin. Two had completed the summit before and told us that there was a second marker but they weren’t sure which was the highest point on the mountain. They wouldn’t tell us where it was because they wanted their friend to find it. Single Malt found it almost right away, another smaller and much less impressive boulder but it also had a USGS marker on it. Which was the correct one? Then the light bulb went on in my head! I switched my good ol’ Garmin to the altimeter screen (I knew this option would come in handy one day.) and stood on top of each rock. The smaller of the two rocks was five feet higher than what most people think is the true summit. (If you hiked up here before and stopped at the first marker thinking you have bagged Mount Rogers but never stood upon the second one you now have an excuse to go back and do it again.) BTW, the summit is at an elevation of 5,729 feet. That’s 449 feet higher than Denver, Colorado, the Mile High City. Once we were sure which was the true summit the two groups took turns photographing the moment for all prosperity.
 
 Having completed our first mission we returned to camp. I stopped first to fill up with water at the spring. We ate our dinners, hung our food and, with the wind dropping the wind chill considerably, called it an early night. Building a fire would have been hazardous under these conditions, especially with no water source close at hand. The wind buffeted our tents pretty good that night to the point of pulling up some of my tent’s stays, but fortunately when we awoke the next morning, we found ourselves "still in Kansas". As we broke down camp our tents became giant kites and more than once we had to chase them across the highland meadows until we had them safely in our packs. I found myself wishing for some twine. My Big Agnes Seedhouse-1 was the perfect box kite!
 
 Our intentions were to linger about camp for a while but the cool breeze compelled us to move out by 8:30. As planned, we followed the AT to the junction of the multiuse Crest Trail (code word for horse trail) and descended upon it to the Scales (A place where cattle were herded in the past for shipment). Initially I was not sure if choosing this trail was a good decision. It started off being a wide road covered with large loose rocks and lined with wood post fences. This soon gave way, however, to a much better trail that passed through several Catawba Rhododendron tunnels. We were here two weeks ago when they were in their prime but now all but a handful of blossoms were gone. It seemed like every few steps we took the scenery changed around us. About halfway along this segment we found a pretty secluded campsite close to what we think is a reliable spring. A few steps out from under the trees and you are in a meadow with a panoramic view to the west in front of you. We continued on to the Scales where we took a short break before re-entering the woods and climbing back up on the AT to its junction with the Pine Mountain Trail. Once up on top we took a lunch break and discussed our options. If we stayed on the AT we would arrive at the Old Orchard Shelter before 1:00 o’clock. Not quite done walking yet, we decided to stay with my original plans and used the Pine Mountain Trail (part of the original AT before a re-route took it through Grayson Highlands), the Lewis Fork Trail (another multi-use trail) and the short and rocky but very steep Cliff-side Trail to extend the day’s hike another two miles or so. By the time we were back on the Lewis Fork Trail all three of us needed a break to calm our wobblely knees. We lost seven hundred feet of elevation in less than 0.6 miles. That’s coming down fast!
 
 The rest of the trek was a nearly flat and wide horse trail. As with the Crest trail the initial part had some large loose rocks but this condition eventually gave way to a more comfortable walk in the woods. Even with this extension we arrived at the shelter about ten minutes before two. We grabbed a campsite below the shelter and left the shelter itself to another group that came in after us. During the day’s hike I mentioned that if we got to camp early I was going to take one of my patented power naps …. and I did just that. About two and a half hours later I was awakened by the sound of several young voices. I crawled out of my tent to find that we had been invaded by a horde of Boy Scouts and their adult caretakers. They were searching for a place to camp for the night. While the area across the trail from us was flat the ground was very rocky. I approached the leader and told him about some great grassy sites under the trees that we had passed on the way in and told him where to find them. He found them to his liking and had his minions set up down there. He returned later to thank us.
 
 After we ate Single Malt started a fire. The previous visitors had left us more than enough wood for some “ambience”. We chatted for a while as we listened to the distant thunder get closer to us. By 7:00 rain caused us to retreat to our tents. The shower only lasted for thirty minutes but by that time we were all comfortable in our reclining modes so we stayed that way. I opened the top of my vestibule door and let the cool air cascade over me. I lay there, totally relaxed, with the murmurs of the shelter group and the giddy laughter of the scouts, along with an occasional rattle of pots and pans, acting as a soothing white background noise. I think I feel asleep around 9:00.
 
 We were all up by 7:00 on Monday morning. I had decided Friday night as I was packing for the trip that I was only going to eat a power bar and drink some water for breakfast this morning as I saved my appetite for the “Hungry Man Special” at Jerry’s Kitchen and Goods. Today’s hike was only going to be around four miles of mostly flat or downhill walking. As we neared the “Lowlands”, as we called them, we found ourselves walking through thickets of beautiful Rhododendron maximum that were just starting to bloom. We then crossed Route 603 (the road we came in on) and immediately turned left onto the Fairwood Valley Trail (Yes, another multiuse trail). When I put this circuit together I included this trail primarily to prevent any need for walking on the road and thought it would be quite boring and full of horse dung (It ends at a horse campground.) While there was some of the latter scattered along the trail the “boring” part was way off target. The trail weaved in and out of dense forest with Rhodo thickets on either side and large meadows full of wild flowers with blue skies and the mountains where we had spent the past three days as a backdrop. It was a great way to end the hike. At the end of this trail I insisted we take a brief break at “the scene of the crime” before completing the last half mile of our trek. I took a short walk back down the trail and mumbled an affirmation of my vow: "See, I told you &%*#@ thugs you couldn’t keep me off of this mountain … and furthermore, I’m coming back with more like me!!!” When we reached the spur trail back to Grindstone I invited my friends to walk ahead of me. I dropped back a few yards, and, as I always do, thanked Him for one of the best hiking trips I’ve ever been on.
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Saki's Trip Report

More Photos by Saki

Dottie's Photos

 

06-13 through 16, 2009 – Grayson Highlands car camping and day hiking trip: Wesiana Sunshine and I loaded up the truck and headed down the road with the dogs a little before 8:00 A.M. We had about a seven hour drive ahead of us. We arrived at the State Park about 3:30 and began setting up camp. We were soon joined by Ted E. Bear, Cognac Jack, Single Malt, Indiana Moser, The Mad Hatter, Shaz, Dot-Com Rusty Bucket, Luke Skywalker and Rocky.

The next morning we set out on a 10.5 mile circuit hike starting at the campground store. We used the Stampers Run Trail to reach the visitor center and then the Twin Pinnacles Trail to visit two fantastic vistas. After taking in the views we descended to Massie Gap. Our initial plan was to climb up to what I call the lower Wilburn Ridge but an x-Sierra Club leader we met at camp highly recommended adding the Cabin Creek Loop to view some waterfalls. I’m always a sucker for water works so off we went. The falls and rapids were indeed impressive. The loop wasn’t difficult at all but stopping at each falls took a little time. The return leg of the loop was along a wide, grassy and slightly uphill grade and made for easy hiking. In about 1.5 hours we were back at Massie’s Gap.

A quick climb up the Rhododendron Trail found us being met by an official greeting party of three ponies. From there we headed NOBO on the AT until Dot-Com found a trail that lead up to the top of a fantastic rock outcrop that offered a 360 degree view. (There are several of these in the Highlands. The difficult part is deciding which one to have lunch on.) We stayed there for about thirty minutes, spending a lot of our time observing the rocky peaks of the main Wilburn Ridge. We would be climbing them tomorrow.

We left the AT at the Apple Orchard Road/Wilson Creek Trail and started our final leg back to camp. The road with its horse dung was a bit boring if not down right unattractive at times but the Wilson Creek Trail was a fantastic way to end the hike. Most of the trail stays in close proximity to the creek and offers great views of slides, rapids and too many deep pools to count. P-Hyker was quite content to linger at one for a while. Indiana, our resident king of water rats tried to stay in but couldn’t and yielded his crown to Precious. The hike ended after a steep climb up to the Campground Store. We all returned to our sites, took showers and ate our dinners. We had some slight showers but they ceased before campfire time. We met at our site and discussed today’s adventure and the strategy for the next day.

The plan was to meet at Ted E. Bear’s and The Mad Hatter’s site at 8:30 then hop in Ted’s van for a quick ride to the trailhead but heavy rain delayed us. For a while it looked as if we were going to have to hunker down for the day but by 10:00 the rain had stopped and we made the short drive to the AT Spur Trailhead in an attempt to complete a 12 mile strenuous loop before more rain moved in. We climbed through alternating meadows and dark woods reaching the AT in about 0.8 miles. As on the previous day we were greeted by another party of ponies. We would pass even more and a colt as we climbed towards the highest parts of the ridge. By this time there were thickets of Catawba Rhododendrons in full bloom everywhere you looked. (I’m still seeing pink and it’s been three days since I last saw them.) The trail was pretty rocky during the main ascents but in between the going was pretty easy. At one point just before our highest elevation for the day we walked through a natural tunnel. We found another great rock outcrop to have lunch on. Again we had a 360 degree view. To the north we could clearly see Thomas Knob with Mount Rogers peaking out behind it. To the south we could see the Pinnacles that we explored the previous day as well as our old lunch spot.

After lunch we made an easy connection with the Pine Mountain Trail. For the next two miles we literally walked through a tunnel of Catawba Rhododendron. At times the walls would open up, offering vast views filled with never ending displays of this beautiful flower. It eventually ended as we connected with the AT and began a gradual descent to The Scales. Back when the Highlands were used for cattle grazing the herds would be brought here for shipment. The climb up the next ridge was totally different from what we’ve been experiencing so far. Instead of a rocky trail surrounded by huge boulders, scattered Frazier Fir and fields of Rhodos we found ourselves walking through fields of Hay-scented Fern and what we think is Whorled Loose-strife (a pretty yellow flower). We once again descended to Wilson Creek but this time we crossed it and the trail of the same name and climbed back up to the lower Wilburn Ridge. Once at the top it was a matter of retracing our initial steps on the spur trail back to our cars.

The weather pretty much fell apart on us shortly after returning to camp but by that time we had accomplished what we set out to do. Despite the rain we were still able to get a fire started and huddled under the picnic canopy for one last time. The next day, we broke camp with wet gear, said our good-byes and headed back home. This was one of the best hiking adventures I’ve had to date.


Read More Adventures Here!

 

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Latest Outing Critiques

Name: Steven Powers                                                                               Hike: Cat Rock Circuit
Date: 6/27/2009                                                                                                         Rating: 4

Critique: Definitely a great hike... Not Old Rag great... but still great.

The only critique I have about this is that the first leg of the hike (Fisherman's Path) is a little vague, hard to find, and not an official maintained trail.

Better directions would be to simply follow the stream or the road to the cat rock trail head.

The fisherman's path itself is overgrown in most areas and impossible to follow.

Another problem I had in following these directions was that the gravel path that was supposedly near the falls is no longer there. Its all boardwalk now a days. If you do follow the only existing gravel path you will end up at the lake... which is not where your supposed to go.

Do watch out for snakes... I saw 3 (1 rattler) within the first 2 miles.

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Name: Jimmy Bair                                                                                      Hike: Dolly Sods circumnavigation Mod 1 (sort of)
Date: June 5-7, 2009                                                                                                  Rating: 4

Critique: My 12yo son and I set out to complete this walk the first weekend after school let out for the summer. Little did I know that the days leading up to our hike would bring heavy rain to the sods. On Friday morning we drove up the fire road in driving rain and fog. We delayed our hike until the afternoon which was only slightly better with steady mist and visibility of about 20 yards.

As we moved off the fire road we found the trail nearly impassable about 200 yards in. after an hour detour around several run-offs, we came upon the trail and followed it up the ridge. The trail condition improved and we rambled on to the intersection of Bear Rocks Trail and Dobbin Glade Trial.

We took a break since the rain and mist kind of stopped. We could hear Red Creek off in the distace, but visibility hadn't improved so we didn't know what lay ahead.

We found Red Creek to be rushing over its banks. The stepping stones marking the trail lay 3 or 4 feet below the rushing water. After checking up and down stream with no luck finding a better ford, we decided to head down Dobbin Grade trail to see what we would find.

Dobbin Grade trail was impassable about a quarter mile from Bear Rocks Trail.

We decided to head back to Bear Rocks Trail, turn right head up to the ridge and find a camp. We settled in and sacked out in the fog.

The next morning we awoke to brilliant clear skies and perfect temperatures. We headed down the trail to find Red creek passable and set off for Rocky Ridge. the scenery and weather were beautiful. After lunching at the rocks on the ridge we decided to stay on the ridge for the evening. We made camp at a very cool campsite below a giant boulder about five minute walk before the trail takes you over the boulder hop. We spent the rest of the day exploring the ridge. We hiked down to the intersection with the Dobbin Grade Trail, then back to the ridge for dinner.

Sunday morning dawned just as beautifully as Saturday. We took our time backtracking over the last two days' hike and returned to our car by 1pm.

This is a beautiful hike, and even though the weather thwarted our attempt at circumnavigation, we had a wonderful time. We will surely be back.

I found the trail conditions to be just what we expected. One observation (criticism?) I have is the seemingly lack of forethought to trail signage. I have no problem with the lack of signs, (We wanted to go to the NF to practice our navigation) but I don't understand why areas like the glades going up Raven Ridge Trail where you can easily identify the trail from a half mile away are heavily signed, but when going through Spruce groves where you can't easily identify the correct trails aren't signed at all.

Thanks to Mr. Hyker for the advice and a great website!

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Name: Strawman                                                                                        Hike: Hogback Mountain/Knob Mountain Loop
Date: 6/27/09                                                                                                             Rating: 4

Critique: Did the 10.3 mile loop version of this hike on a beautiful June day. The hike was quite nice, with some great overlook views. Also plenty of wildlife to watch, including a rattlesnake sunning itself on the Keyser Fire Road, and a black bear with her two cubs between Elkwallow and Matthews Arm. The only downside of the trail was its frequent proximity to Skyline Drive, and the associated noise. Overall a very nice hike that I would do again.

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Name: Brandon                                                                                                            Hike: Grayson Highlands - 2
Date: 5/29/2009                                                                                                         Rating: 5

Critique: I did this the Friday after Memorial Day. I was planning on making it a 2-3 day excursion earlier in the week, but all it did was rain and I really didn't want to deal with it. So Friday's forecast was non-rainy, so I did this simply as a dayhike.

I did the route described, except I also hiked out to the top of Mt. Rogers, and I did this counter-clockwise. So it was 15-16 miles. Thankfully the elevation change was never anything crazy - I never needed to stop for a break, just for the many many photo ops.

I'd say the most "boring" area was Little Wilson Creek Wilderness - just a walk in the woods. Don't shortcut it though, because north of it is Stone Mountain and the best landscape/views of the hike.

Sadly the rhododendrons were still prepping when I was there, as I didn't see any blooms. The ponies didn't disappoint though! On this day, they were pretty much all around the Wilburn Ridge and Thomas Knob shelter areas. I'm not sure how many hikes feature the sounds of a hiker begging a pony to stop chewing on his tent.

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Name: Rob                                                                                                                    Hike: Old Rag Mountain
Date: 6-21-09                                                                                                              Rating: 5

Critique: I have lived in Wyoming, Colorado, and Idaho. While this may not have the solitude of a hike into the southern entrance of Yellowstone Park, it was one of the best hikes I ever had east of the Mississippi.

I went by myself and got there at 1pm on a Sunday. This was a perfect time and I was able to park in the upper lot.

The trail up to the scramble is a consistent incline and very easy. The rock scramble was awesome and much more impressive in person than described anywhere I have read.

However, I was not able to complete the circuit and I got rock jammed at the minor summit. I spent 20 minutes trying to figure out how to get through a crevice/fissure that was narrow, tight, and slick on the sides. I tried over and over to put my back against one side and use my feet to push up against the other side to no avail. I was so pissed as I wanted to get to the top badly. I did not run into anyone while struggling so I am not sure if I was lost or what though the blue blazes were all over the walls of this thing. So I turned around and went back.

Despite not summiting, I still enjoyed the trek!

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Name: Jason                                                                                                                Hike: Rocky Mount
Date: 6/17/09                                                                                                             Rating: 4

Critique: Definetly a strenous day hike but the two major climbs are spaced out nicely, so you don't get too worn down. Hike to the peak on Rocky Mount is the most strenous section, but views from the cliffs at the top are great. If you parked at Two Mile Overlook you can even see your car from one of the cliffs.

Hike down Rocky Mount into Gap Run is very non descript but the Gap Run tributary is a nice reward. The tributary is an idyllic oasis after coming down the rocky slopes of Rocky Mount. Trail was muddy at times in the Gap Run area and while initial crossing of Gap Run could result in some wet feet if the water is high, other crossings you can almost jump over.

Stopped for lunch near Gap Run and had a black bear come up within 25 feet of us. I'm not sure if it noticed us, if it did it cleary was not interested.

Hiked this on a beautiful Friday and saw one other hiker the whole day, so expect isolation, as this hike is only for those looking for a hardy day hike. There are a couple nice camping spots in the Gap Run area so this would make a nice short backpack as well. One other thing, hike this is the direction stated on the website. The hike up Rocky Mount the other way seems brutally steep.

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Name: Dave & Tina                                                                                                     Hike: Cold Mountain Loop
Date: 06-20-09                                                                                                            Rating: 4.5

Critique: This is a great hike. Not too hard not too easy. Great views. The only thing is the whole accessibility issue. The roads to get to the trail head are horrible especially if you have a low car. Must enter/exit from the west end of Wiggins Springs Road, else you will get stuck or on a dead end!!

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